Vietnam and Cambodia 2020 – Hanoi

Dividing this into 3 blog posts –  1. Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) 2. Hanoi, Vietnam and 3. Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Mon Mar 9

Said our goodbyes and thank you to Jackie….excellent guide!

Check-in etc. all smooth.  Vietnam Airlines.  Good flight, just over 2 hours and included snacks….more food!!

Arrived just after 6PM.  Definitely not as warm as HCMC.  Our guide here is Vinhy (sp?)  Just getting dark on our drive to the hotel…..very different here.  More of a big city feel to it than Saigon.  Not the street vendors, roadside cafes etc. very quiet compared to HCMC, but then maybe just the route from the airport.  Crossed a huge bridge with lights that changed colours.  More cars than scooters and bikes. Will be interesting to see more in the daylight tomorrow.

We’re at the Crowne Plaza here  https://www.ihg.com/crowneplaza/hotels/us/en/hanoi/hanch/hoteldetail/photos-tours#scmisc=nav_photos-tours_cp  Massive hotel.  Nice rooms.   On our own for dinner tonight.  Not very adventurous and doesn’t look like it’s easy to cross the road to get to where there might be restaurants so we just ate at the hotel.  Joined Lori and Connie.  Pizzas and soup and that was about it.

Busy day!  Our room looks out over a very bus road with a major roundabout.  They’ve closed one side of the street getting it ready for some big car race in April….so traffic is even more crazy.  Looking forward to not having any light issues!!

Tues Mar 10 

Oh happy day…..a 9AM start!! A bit of time to relax before our jam packed day.  Good buffet with an egg guy.  A mix of western and asian goodies.  Lots of hot coffee.  Quite pleasant this morning.  A bit of cloud but lots of sun and just nice and warm, definitely not as hot as Saigon.

The currency here is the “Dong”.  Had no problems finding ATM’s/bank machines in Saigon, so stocked up there.  I think I have enough to last here.  Don’t want to dip into my US if I don’t have to as that is what we’ll need in Cambodia.

Eddie has been taking great care of us.  A bit disturbing that they’ve had about 10 cases of corona here so they’re trying to stay on top of it with temp checking, hand santizing and masks, which also means unfortunately closing some of the tourist stuff, one of which is the Temple of Literature which was to be our first stop today.  http://vanmieu.gov.vn/en/  Too bad, I think it would have been very interesting.  Instead we are heading directly to the Ho Chi Minh complex.  Drive there was great…..happy to see the city is much the same as Saigon…..lots of people, street stands etc.  Was so quiet last night.

Driving thru the city was interesting.  The river, a lake and the old quarter is wonderful….crowded and full of people, tourists and locals, lots of restaurants, shops, street markets, barbers on the sidewalks etc.

The Red River also runs thru the city so lots of pedestrian walkways and parks around it. Saigon is the bigger of the two and where most business/commerce is but Hanoi is the capital and the oldest…..dating back to 1000AD.  IMG_0502French influence on many buildings here too.  Still most homes/shops are tall and narrow……something about the max width can be 15ft or something close to that but they can build to quite a few stories, so that is what they do!  Not sure if it was because of taxes or some city bylaw type thing.  We did see some pretty huge houses definitely much more that 15ft so probably taxes or ??

Arrived at the HCM complex early because there is usually quite a line up to get in…..Vinhy said we’d probably have to wait at least 1/2 hour or more…..but not today!  Apparently because of the outbreak they have stopped all international flights into Vietnam….so we’re lucky we got here when we did! I think!! But regardless we’re here now!  The hotel is almost empty…..not sure how many rooms but maybe 25 or 30 people at most in the dining room and milling about.

https://vietnamdiscovery.com/hanoi/attractions/ho-chi-minh-mausoleum-complex/

Took 5 minutes for Vinhy to get our tickets and into the grounds. No photos allowed enroute to HCM’s mausoleum.  You must follow the route and walk single file all the way from the gate…..about a 6 or 7 minute walk.  Luckily it wasn’t hot because there was no shade.  The temp is pretty much perfect…tee shirt weather.  The grounds are huge as is the mausoleum.  You walk up the stairs, past the guards and into the building, then around where he is laid out, with lights shining on him……NO talking either!!  They have guards stationed inside and outside the building…..which they change every couple of hours.  Asked Vinhy if it’s really an embalmed him or ??  He said to just “know it’s him” ???, so have to presume so but it does look like wax or ?  Interesting but also a little strange.  The mausoleum was built in 1975 so 7 years after his death.

Not sure if he was loved or hated.  Vinhy seemed quite taken with him, or at least his “vision”.   Basically all he wanted was peace and to not be occupied or at war.  HCM asked for help from the US to unify Vietnam and they turned him down (communism/dictator etc).  HCM was then approached by Russia and well, the rest is history!!  Vinhy said he is not at peace being put on display…..not what he would have wanted.  He lived very frugally on the palace grounds in the 3 room stilt house.

The palace is beautiful, bright yellow, as were all the buildings on the grounds (yellow represents peace and happiness).  It was only used for official and dignitary visits.  There’s a very pretty lake and beautiful gardens with huge trees and shaded pathways thru the complex.  HCM spent most of his time in the stilt house.

Wandered around a bit…..there’s a pagoda, a snack stand and a bit of a market and some good washrooms!!  Have not seen one “squatty potty” anywhere so far!!  This is good!  The HCM Museum was closed, which was too bad.  There is snippets of information on boards on the grounds but would have been interesting to see and read more about him.

Loved all the street activity……people cooking, people eating, barbers set up along one of the streets, buys playing checkers wherever…..

On to lunch!!  First we had a cooking class.  Our first lesson was fruit carving/decorating.  We all had a demo of making tomato roses, then had to do one ourselves.  They make it look so easy!!  IMG_0577My tomato turned out pretty darn good I think…..and so did they!  I was one of the top 3…..the winners got a free Heineken.  I’d already had a Hanoi Beer, so feeling a bit loopy after that one.  Lots of fun.   We were divided into 3 separate groups and had to pick our “chef”.  All the Burnaby boys got chosen to do the cooking.  They first had to spice up and marinate the fish, then it all got tossed into a pan and stir fried with veg.  Was very good.  They served it to us in bowls with rice, which we thought was our lunch!  NOT!  A whole table was set up next door for our real lunch. When we are not moving, we are eating!!!  All was very good…..soup, crab balls on a stick, veg, prawns, beef and more!  I truly think this has been some of the best food on a tour type holiday.  Still waiting for what I think is normal pho!!

After lunch we rolled ourselves back on the bus for a short drive to the Tran Quoc Pagoda, the oldest pagoda in Vietnam.   https://vietnamdiscovery.com/hanoi/attractions/tran-quoc-pagoda/  Very pretty around there, it’s right on the river, nice treelined street. IMG_0617 People are set up outside the gate selling birds and turtles….mostly little guys but a couple of big ones, probably close to a foot round, to buy and release for good health/luck etc.  Felt bad for the big turtles that we tied up….they just kept moving like they were trying to walk away….poor things!!  Connie asked how much to buy all of them, the lady said “millions”, which may have amounted to a couple hundred CDN….wish we’d all chipped in to do that!  But I guess they would have just gone out and got more….probably the same ones over and over again.  At least they let them go!

Beautiful pagoda and grounds.  Also a Buddhist temple for many people preparing offerings, some putting together trays of goodies.  Food, alcohol, flowers, cigarettes and a new fruit that I haven’t seen called Buddha’s Hand, which they use to make a tea.  Nice spot right on the lake.  A guy fishing on the rocks with a long skinny bamboo pole…..sort of fly fishing.  Very pretty place with well maintained gardens and grounds.

Leaving there we passed a memorial to John McCain.  It’s on the main road that runs along the lake.  It’s where he was captured after he’d parachuted.  He’d broken his arm and could barely swim.  The memorial is now a friendly gesture to the US……and how, enemy or not, he was respected by them.

IMG_0639

Hanoi is quite a pretty city with all the water, gardens and treelined streets.  Our next stop was the Vietnam History Museum, which was excellent.  http://baotanglichsu.vn/en Well laid out with some very interesting artifacts. Spent over and hour in there but started getting museum overload.

Because of the Literacy Museum being closed and an early lunch we had over an hour to kill before our rickshaw ride at 4, which was starting just outside the museum.  Some of us thought we’d take a little walk looking for a place to get a coffee.  Lots of Starbucks but not near there.  We did manage to cross a couple of streets with no incidents, which was exciting!!  They said to walk like you are the boss…..the scooters, cars and buses will go around you…..DO NOT STOP once you start going…..scary but it seems to work.  Never did find coffee!

We each got our own rickshaw, which then had to cross 4 lanes of traffic to get on our route….rather exciting but we made it.  20200310_155929Lots of honking. Cars, scooters, buses etc. just whizzing by….made sure to keep my arms and hands in at all times!  A one point traffic came to a stop, so we waited and just as things started moving again, including us, a scooter came zooming by and cut right in front of us to turn right but had to stop quickly…..my driver was doing a lot of yelling and could NOT stop so we crashed into the side of the scooter.  Not too hard luckily but hard enough to hear metal on metal…my driver yelled even more and flailling his arms ……the scooter driver had a quick over the shoulder look at us and just drove off with a dent in his tailpipe!!  The rest of the ride was lovely and uneventful!  Almost an hour.  We drove thru the Old Quarter.  Very busy, just a great area.  Lots of restaurants and cafes, hostels all over the place.  One area that was all produce, another selling flowers, a couple other streets for household items, electronics etc.  IMG_0709Streets were packed with locals and tourists.  I love the little plastic tables and chairs or stools that many stands have set up.  Really an enjoyable tour.  Suggested tip was $2US but I gave my driver 5…..that’s a lot of work pedaling those things thru traffic and throngs of people on the streets.  Unfortunately I took a lot of video thru the food part and not a lot of pics…..too bad because that was the best part!

Finished our ride at a coffee house, Pho Co Cafe.  Nice rooftop sitting area with a great view over the Old Quarter and the lake.  Vinhy treated us to traditional Vietnamese coffees.  Had tried one at home …..very strong, kind of espresso with sweet milk.  Here you tell them whether you want sugar and/or milk, which is condensed milk so very sweet.  Kind of a combination of lip puckering bitter and cloying sweetness. Was fun to have it there but won’t be ordering another anytime too soon.

We had about 45 minutes before our “Watery Puppet Show”, which was just down the street, so a couple of us took off to do a bit of shopping en route.  Not much in the line of clothing shops right there so just browsed in a few stores mostly selling touristy stuff.  I did pick up a really nice picture of a woman in the rice paddies…..it’s embroidered!

The puppet show was actually pretty good. No pictures allowed!  A bit hokey but fun.  Along with the show was traditional music and singing.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_puppetry  Kind of a neat history about how it started back in the 11th century.  Luckily they gave us a program to follow so we understood each of the stories the puppets were telling us. All in all kind of fun, but not sure I would go out of my way to see it if it hadn’t been included.

Was dark when we came out and the area all around the lake was lit up as well as the bridge……very pretty.  And the streets where just packed with people…..lots of fun!  The whole city overall is really quite lovely…..a mix of typical narrow buildings along with French and colonial architecture, lots of greenery, wide streets, chaotic traffic, noise etc.  Great place!

Dinner tonight was great.  A place called “Khai’s Brothers”.  A big buffet set up in the centre courtyard, which is an old temple garden.  Buffet was excellent with every kind of dish possible….meat, fish, great veg, salads and a soup station where a couple of gals put together whatever you wanted.  All delicious!

Back to the hotel, a quick drink in the bar and up to pack an overnight bag for our trip to Halong Bay tomorrow.  We have to check out in the morning and they’ll keep our bags for when we come back the next day and then have to check in again!!  A little bizarre considering the hotel is pretty much empty….you would think we could have just left everything in our rooms….oh well!

Another great day……a really busy day!  The weather is not looking too good for Halong Bay tomorrow…..which is too bad.  Was hoping for sun….ah sigh.

Wed Mar 11

Up early!  Breakfast, check out, store bags and on the bus by 7!!  A 4 hour drive to Halong Bay.  It was warm-ish but pretty overcast so not much chance of seeing any sun today.

The city is busy…..everyone already has the food stands set up, roadside produce stalls etc. People using their scooters and motorcycles as “cargo” vans.   As we left the city we started going thru smaller towns/villages but with the same scenes.

Once in the countryside, many beautiful farms, rice paddies being tended.  A few industrial areas.  Geese farms…..or farms with lots of geese!  Yet interestingly not something we’ve seen on any of our menus so far.

Many people along the roadside selling goodies….mostly fruit but you see a lot of those packets of cured meat.  Tons of flower stands.  Not a very nice day which is really too bad….very overcast, not cold but not hot either.  I just love the rice paddies….from a distance they look like a solid sea of green but up closer you can see the individual stalks of rice…..these also could just be recently planted fields that will thicken up later.  Just about every field has someone working in it.  Such hard manual work….so sign of any type of machinery regardless of what is being grown.

Stopped for a break at a very touristy shop that sold everything from huge Buddhas and dragons statues for your garden (or wherever you might want to put them!!) to beautiful delicate pearls and other gems.  Some very nice clothes but all really quite expensive, definitely geared towards tourists enroute to Halong Bay.  At least 3 other big buses where there.  Our bus is medium size I guess…..since there are only 14 of us….with just enough seats that we can each have our own row/window, which is kind of nice.

As we got closer and closer to the coast you started to see “mountains”, which truly looked like huge rocks…..limestone I guess, like Halong Bay.  Arrived in Halong Bay just before noon.  Halong is a very busy tourist destination for locals as well as foreigners.  Many highrise apartments and timeshares.   There’s a cable car that crosses the harbour/port and marina as well as a huge “Sun Wheel”, like the London Eye. IMG_0921Had to fill in “medical forms” and have our temperature taken.  Lots of boats, big and small, some are “self-drive”, like the houseboats we can rent on lakes at home, some are bigger specifically for short cruises like ours.  Lots of barges, container ships and tankers.  Very well kept and pretty place, nicely landscaped boulevards and medians.  Many very attractive lowrise French looking apartment complexes.  I’m sure it’s usually booming but not now because of corona.  Such a shame because 50%, or more, of the population here relies on tourism.  The marina is full of boats…..many anchored right now unfortunately…..just not busy.

Also to protect the bay, or at least to try and protect it, you are forbidden to take any plastic bottles on any of the boats……if you are caught, the captain gets a fine, not you, so they were quite diligent in checking everyone.  Better than nothing and certainly good on them for making the effort.

Took a tender out to our boat, The Victory.   https://baithojunks.com/  20200312_082551It has the capacity for 60ish people but there are only 20 of us.  It’s really lovely.  Our cabins are small but very pretty, a good size bathroom, and nice little balcony big enough for a small table and two chairs.  The main deck has the dining area, bar and seating area inside, outside there is a nice big deck with lots of chairs and seating areas, the upper outside deck has lots of tables and seating and is partially covered…..I guess for hot sunny days, ah sigh!  Just not the best of days to sit out there and enjoy the scenery unfortunately.  The main deck patio is at the front of the boat, so even though we’re not moving at any great speed, it’s a bit too breezy and chilly to sit out there.

Got our bags dropped off in our cabins and just enough time to have a quick drink before we started our cruise and lunch was served. Lots of smaller boats out and about and the odd “houseboat”.  We ordered a bottle of bubbly to celebrate getting here!  One of the things on everyone’s bucket list….Halong Bay!!  It looks absolutely glorious in all the brochures,  which I’m sure it is on bright sunny days, but oh well, I’m just so glad to be here and the mist and low cloud make it almost magical or mystical.  The karst formations and islands are just beautiful and even in this cloudy weather the water is an incredible blue/green.   Lunch was excellent!!  Very gourmet really with each course beautifully presented.   Quite enjoyable just sitting and chatting.

After lunch was a tour to one of the islands with a pretty beach and a cave that you had to climb up to.  Donna and I decided we would pass on it and spent a couple of hours out on the deck having drinks and chatting with Gord and Alan.  It was quite pleasant outside when the boat wasn’t moving…..still no sun though.   Everyone that went said it was really interesting and lovely but it was also great to have a couple of hours of just sitting and relaxing.  We just seem to be on the go continually.

Once everyone was back on board we did some scenic sailing.  Even though cloudy and overcast, with a few spits of rain, it is a pretty spectacular place.  Some of the pillars are huge, islands really, but straight out of the sea up and up….others are smaller and truly look like pillars.  Other than the one we stopped at I didn’t notice any others with beaches but apparently there are a few of them.  We were supposed to have the chance to go kayaking but that’s just not going to happen unfortunately.  I would have done that!

Brenda and Cathy went for massages…..just OK they said.  A couple of others had just the foot and leg massages….one of the guys had a pedicure!  The rest of us just sat around in the bar chatting and enjoying the scenery.  Around 4:30 we had tea time/snacks…..a very good creamy drink of some sort.  Lots of snacks….deep fried shrimp chips, very salty but tasty pretzel sticks, nuts and other snacky goodies (eating again!!)  Then we had a cooking lesson/demo!!  Donna and Cathy and then a few others had a go at putting together salad rolls.  The demo ladies finished putting the rest together and we ate those too!!

Was just too chilly to sit outside unfortunately so just popped out every now and again to snap a few pics.  Very disappointed though looking at them later because they aren’t very good….poor lighting at this time of day and the cloud cover made for really crappy pics unfortunately, which is too bad.

Dinner was just as good as lunch if not better!!  And again all presented so nicely.  Talked to a few of the other people on board, people from Germany, Switzerland and France.  Each table had a flag of the country that they were from….fun.  A enjoyable evening relaxing and having a very good glass, or two, of wine (Aussie).

During dinner, Eddie had a number of phone conversations….hmmmm, we thought.  Sure enough he told the 4 of us that our flight out of Siem Reap to Hong Kong on the 16th had been cancelled and we’d spend an extra day there and then leave on the 17th to Hong Kong via Bangkok….but we’d have to overnight in Hong Kong. All at the expense of Cathay Pacific.  This should all be interesting as we don’t have Eddie with us for the Cambodia part of the trip.  Fingers crossed everything goes smoothly…..he has assured us that it will!!  Things are just getting crazier each day.  Heard a rumour tonight that Halong Bay will be shut down tomorrow….so cloud and all it sounds like we were lucky that we made it here period.

To bed pretty early, just after 10, but another great and busy day.  Up early tomorrow for our tour of the water village.  I hope we at least get a peek of sun tomorrow.

Thurs Mar 12

Slept great…..nice comfy beds and great pillows.  Up very early, before 6, for coffee and a small continental type breakfast around 7.  No sun…..ah sigh.

Out right after breakfast to visit Vung Vieng Village….a floating village.  Very overcast this morning, even a few sprinkles of rain…too bad.  But even in this weather it looks lovely.  The tender took us by a number of other boats similar to the Victory, a couple had their traditional sails up.  IMG_0856Also a lot of the smaller boats out….the house boat type.  Not sure if I’d do that….the water is pretty calm but it’s pretty open water, not like a lake and there are quite a few tankers and barges that you’d have to contend with.  They may have a specific area that they have to go to and only use this route to get to/from the marina.  Even though you can’t bring plastic bottles on board, there were still a lot of them bobbing around in the water.  They are trying I guess.

The village marina is kind of tucked away in a smaller bay,  We got into 4 person rowboats with one lady rowing……hard work!!  Really quite enjoyable just watching the scenery go by.  Many different types of houses…..some looked like family compounds with a few different buildings on the floats, others were stand alone, some were like little individual neighbourhoods with a few individuals houses connected by little bridges or planks.  Quite a few dogs, which I am telling myself are family pets!!!  A lot of boats as well, biggish and small fishing type boats that people live on.  All, or most a brightly painted.  Very peaceful and serene there.

The village is sort of tucked into a little bay protected by a couple of bigger islands.  The limestone formations are pretty impressive up close, some sheer faces with bamboo adding a bit of colour and softness, which made it very pretty……bamboo is such a calming plant….gently moving in the breeze.  You could see holes, or maybe caves, in some of the rocks.  Our lady didn’t speak English so couldn’t ask her about them and forgot to ask once we were back on the boat.

The main part of the village was the dock, it has a school and a bit of a supply store.  Other than that everyone must be pretty self-sustaining.  We did see oyster farms and was supposed to visit a pearl farm but it was closed due to the virus.   It didn’t clear up at all the couple hours we were out…..oh well, still just beautiful.

Back on board the Victory just after 9:30.  Our buffet brunch was all set up. We were also told that Halong Bay and all boats were being closed down for one month because of the virus.  Not sure how many cases they’ve had but definitely not taking any chancess.  This is just devastating to them since these boats and all the tourism is one of the main sources of income in this area.   Very nice buffet set up with a mix of our kind of breakfast stuff and local traditional dishes along with yogurt, fruit and some really nice pastries.  Really….it seems like we eat all the time!

Sailed back to the marina and managed to get a few more  dull and gloomy pics but it kind of made it more mysterious looking in the fog/mist.

Just before we got off the boat the manager (American guy) and all the staff thanked us for our visit and wished us well on the rest of our trip.  He advised that that they too would also be disembarking with us.  And they did……two tenders to take everyone back to the marina.

Very dull, dreary day.  Stopped for a break at a place similar to the one on the way.  Again, nice stuff but I think a little over priced.  Some of it, especially the clothes did look better quality but hard to tell really.

Vinhy stopped at a street fruit vender and got a jackfruit.  He cut it up for every one to try.  Tasted really good….sort of a mango/peachy taste but smoother texture.  Each section has a bit pit in it, looks like a pecan still in it’s shell.

Our bus got side swiped!!  By a truck.  Drivers exchanged some money and off we went…..nasty big black scrape on the side of the bus.

Back to check in and a bit of rest before our Farewell Dinner…..a real farewell as we go off in different directions tomorrow.  Six of us will head to Cambodia (the 4 of us and Connie and Lori), the others are all off to Thailand for 4 days then on to Cambodia.  We will be sort of on our own….no Eddie!!  He’s off to Thailand with the rest of them……apparently you have to have at least 8 people to get the tour company guide all the way……info that they didn’t tell us!  I’m sure we’ll survive but just that things are a little different right now.  Eddie has assured us that we’ll have no issues.  There will be a guy waiting in Cambodia with a sign who will collect our passports and get our visas.  And our guide, who’s name is Kim, will be waiting with a sign.  He’s printed off all our flight changes as well as emailing the info.  He’s got all our phone numbers and we have his just in case.  Donna will be our main contact person if any more changes come up.  He’s pretty sure there won’t be any other changes but things seem to be getting a little crazy from messages that we’re getting from home, so who knows!

The bus came to pick us at at 6:30 looking as good as new!!!  Everyone wanted to how he got the body work done so quickly…..he just smiled!  Dinner tonight was excellent.  IMG_0971A great restaurant call “Ly Club”.  https://lyclub.vn/ (new website in the works….)  Beautiful place, colonial style building in the French district.  Very pretty outside, lots of plants, palms etc. could easily be somewhere in the south of France…..especially with the Bentley parked out front.  Inside was just a lovely, bright and white wood paneling, dark floors, nicely set tables etc.  Definitely the splashiest place we’ve had dinner.  Food was all excellent as well as the service and the wine.  Vinhy and Eddie gave a little speech and then gave each of us a little women figurine as a gift….a very nice little touch.  Great evening.

A nighcap at the bar and to bed.  I’m pretty sure there are maybe, including all 14 of us, 20 people at this massive hotel!!!

Fri Mar 13 (!!!!)

Slow start this morning.  Our flight to Siem Reap isn’t until 5.  Later breakfast and just repacking and organizing my bags.  Checked out at 12 and, of course…..off to lunch!!  Very different part of the city but much the same street scenes.  All the little cafes and street food places were busy.  Another excellent lunch, one of the best we’ve had….that said all has been excellent.  IMG_1019Quite the variety today including duck!!!  It was the first time we’d had it and it was delicious, along with the french fries…..what a treat they were.  Chicken with lemon grass, absolutely delicious spring rolls, beef, rice and a pho to start. Dessert was a little gummy type square that came in a little box….not sure exactly what they were, maybe a bean cake??  Kind of good but 1/2 of one was enough.  Flavour was OK but the texture was a bit of thing for me.  More than enough food…..for every 4 people they’d bring out a plate of each.  More often than not there would be stuff left and not because it wasn’t good, even the guys couldn’t put anymore away.

Right after lunch we headed to the airport. Our flight was at 5 and the Thailand flight at 4:30. Said our goodbyes to Vinhy and Eddie and the others. What a great bunch we had to travel with for the last week. Great people. Hope we can keep connected at home. Have done an email list and have already found Maurine on facebook!!

I’m really going to miss Hanoi! Wasn’t too sure about it the first day but it really kind of grew on me. Would love to come back some day……not on a tour! Spend some time in the Old Quarter and would love to visit Halong Bay in the sun. Friendly people, so much more of this country to see…….one day!

A few more random street shots……out the bus window!

Our gate wasn’t posted yet so took our time going thru security etc. The airport was just about empty!! A few people here and there…..again could have played football just about anywhere. Our gate finally came up and was right next to the others heading to Thailand. Grabbed a coffee and some snacks.

Flight was about and hour and half. Vietnam Airlines again…..very good!

Next on to Siem Reap…….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vietnam and Cambodia 2020 – Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

We’d talked about doing this trip for months…..finally a reasonably good deal came up and we booked it in early January.  BEFORE the corona virus was a major issue.  As the time got closer and closer we did worry a bit but it still had not been declared a pandemic.  Travel advisories for both countries suggested it wasn’t necessary to cancel plans but to take necessary precautions such as hand washing and masks…..petty theft seemed to be a bigger issue!  Four of us went…..myself, Donna, Brenda and Cathy.  Decided to book a tour as opposed to doing it ourselves because it was just easier and a “small group” tour (max 25 people).  Opted not to include the 5 days in Thailand as that is some place that we’d be able to organize ourselves one day.  Booked it through a local travel agent.  The tour operator was China Star Holidays……who I must say were excellent!  http://www.chinastarholiday.com/  As with this kind of tour we were busy from the moment our feet hit the ground until our last day. 

As the trip got closer and closer COVID 19 was becoming more of an issue.  Our flights thru Shanghai were changed, as well as the airline from China Eastern to Cathay Pacific, going thru Hong Kong, which we were happy about. All was still a go, we were assured by the travel agent that if any problems came up things would be changed as necessary.  We could not cancel at this point (2 weeks out) without losing all our money as the travel advisory still had not changed.  So, for better or worse, off we went! 

Dividing this into 3 blog posts –  1. Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) 2. Hanoi, Vietnam and 3. Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Wed/Thurs/Fri Mar 4/5/6

Last minute flight change had us leaving the night/morning before, at just after 1AM of the 5th (Vanc time), so we gained a full day in Ho Chi Minh (orig supposed to arrive at midnight on the 6th).  Picked everyone up, dropped the car at the park and fly and met our guide, Eddie, at the Cathay Pacific check-in at 10:15 on the 4th.  Met the rest of our group…..8 people, all locals.  Will be two more that we meet up with once we arrive in HCM, so 14 of us, which is just enough.  Luggage checked thru to Ho Chi Minh so don’t have to worry about collecting it in Hong Kong….only have an hour there so that’s a good thing.

Donna, Brenda and the others had already gone thru security by the time Cathy and I did.  We met the pilot, Doug, going thru security……record time for that since we were the only 3 people!  Not sure if just because of the time of day, or morning, or just so few flights.

Plane was maybe just half full…….huge plane too!  777-300.  Had a window and Brenda had the aisle originally but ended up getting a row in the centre to herself.

20200305_010356
Blurry, but you get the idea!

Not much to see since it was dark all the way until just before arriving in Hong Kong.  Long, long flight…..13.5hrs!  Served dinner around 2AM.  Gave us a menu that listed the salad, our choice of 3 main courses (chicken, shrimp or veg) dessert and the wines they were serving!!   Ran out of our choice for dinner so told us we’d get first pick for breakfast.  Had the and prawns and rice (just OK), wine was Australian (good).

Got settled in with my pillow, blanket, eye mask and my new foot hammock!  That thing is fantastic!  Managed to actually sleep close to 6 hours.  Brenda had moved when I woke up so tried to stretch out over the 3 seats but the middle armrest would not go up! Still managed to get comfy enough to doze on and off for another couple hours.  Great service, very friendly and helpful staff.

Breakfast was OK…scrambled eggs, hashbrowns, an odd little sausage and a really good little sweet bun with cranberries……good, very hot coffee!

All and all for such a long flight it was pretty good and no complaints about Cathay Pacific.

Arrived in Hong Kong just after 7AM, wrong side of the plane of course to get any view of the city.  20200305_151759Unreal seeing so many planes parked, there had to be a few hundred all in neat rows, wing tip to wing tip.  Eddie collected us all and off we went to the gate for our connection to Saigon.  Had only one hour but no problems and NO PEOPLE!!  I’ve never been to Hong Kong before but I’m pretty sure the airport is normally packed.  20200305_154206Honestly you could have had a football game in there.  Only our gate and one other a ways down that had people.  Wow!

 

Flight to HCM was just 2hrs……no window.  Another half empty flight. Eddie collected us and all our passports, extra pics, visa letters etc. for the visa processing.  Took about 1/2 hours, then thru customs/immigration, which took about 5 minutes……not many people at all.  Out to meet our local guide and on the bus.  Busy outside with lots of people coming and going…..apparently only international flights have been limited so still lots of domestic arrivals and departures. Nice airport, looks fairly new.

Once on the bus and enroute to the hotel Eddie and Jackie, our local guide, explained the itinerary etc.  Great drive to the hotel thru the city.  Millions, literally, of scooters, Crazy busy traffic and constant horn honking and beeping.  Architecture is very interesting.  A mix of residental and commercial, very narrow buildings, many look almost colonial or French, some very modern.  Shops on the street level, homes above.  Lots of fruit and veg vendors along the road as well as a few food stands….pho!  Tons of restaurants and cafes with little plastic chairs and tables on the sidewalk.  Streets are relatively clean, bits of paper here and there, bags of trash piled up for pick up.

We have a “free” day here…..because we arrived earlier, so we’re on our own for lunch and dinner today.

Arrived at our hotel, the Equatorial, around 10:30.  https://hochiminhcity.equatorial.com/tours/  Eddie and Jackie looked after all the check-ins for us while we sat and enjoyed a very refreshing glass of hibiscus tea.  Too early to get our rooms but luckily had packed bathing suits in the carry-ons.

Beautiful pool surrounded by plumeria trees and other greenery, nice bar with lots of shaded seating.  Had a swim and our first Saigon beers to celebrate arriving and surviving the incredibly long travel day(s)!  Very hot!!  Got our rooms just after noon, so went up and got a bit organized then back down to the pool for lunch or a bit of a snack.  Just too tired and too hot to head out exploring.  French fries, satay and spring rolls.  We were doing everything we possibly could to NOT go up to our rooms and just go to bed.

20200306_135842

Met up with others in our group.  Maureen and Ken, Alan, Grant and Gord are all old friends (some since elementary school…..and they’re our age!)  Another lady, Jody is not with them, she’s from Kamloops I think.  Mark and Mercy from Abbotsford. Met the other two ladies, Connie and Lori, who had just arrived from Thailand where they’d been for a week.

Up to change around 5:30 and figure out what to do about dinner.  Donna decided on a short nap, Brenda, Cathy and I ventured out for a little tour of the streets around the hotel….even managed to cross the street a couple of times!  Lots of places to eat but Eddie and Jackie suggested not trying anything for the first day or two, so just found a Circle K for some big bottles of water and headed back to the hotel.  Donna was up by the time we got back. Brenda and Cathy were done and just went to bed. Donna and I went to check out dinner in the restaurant but it was buffet and just way too much food.  Back to the pool bar and ordered a couple glasses of wine and pizza.  Was OK and good enough.

Was totally done for the day by 8:30……so tired I could hardly see straight.  Read for a bit until the lights went out…..by themselves!!

Sat Mar 7

Ack…..the lights in our room have a mind of their own!!  They come on and go off without any help from us…..just bizarre!  Slept pretty good for a couple of hours until the light show started.  The light beside my bed came on, I turned it off…..10 minutes later the light near the door came on, turned it off, then the bathroom light came on and on it went until 2 when I finally got up and put my eye mask on.

Slept until 5:30.  Felt OK, made the hotel room instant coffee and took it down by the pool to update my journal and wait for everyone for breakfast.  Really hot and muggy.  Just the best time of day!!  Fun watching and listening to our street wake up. It’s busy with scooters loaded with bundles of stuff, various types of carts being pulled by people or people on bikes, lots of honking, stores/cafes starting to open with people sweeping up out front, setting up their big pots and a few people sitting on those little chairs having their breakfast.

Excellent breakfast buffet.  Lots of variety, eggs, bacon (v.g.) etc. Asian assortments of soups, noodles and dumplings, great pastries and really good, hot coffee.

20200307_065557
Wonderful little pumpkin dumplings…..tasted as good as they looked!

Chatted with some of our groups…..a couple of other rooms also had light shows!!  Just weird.  Alan knows my nephew thru the BC Lacrosse Assoc. and Gord, is the brother-in-law of a friend of Cathy’s!  Ken and Maureen live about a 5 minute drive from my house!! It really is a small world!

 

 

On the bus by 8 for our visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%E1%BB%A7_Chi_tunnels  Nice drive, about 45 min.  Small scattered villages/communities enroute, all still within the city limits but much more countryside rather than urban. Rubber tree plantations line the roadside.  They mark and slash the trees then put in a sort of spigot for the latex to drain, apparently it can only be done at night.  The trees are good for producing for 25 years.

We entered thru the museum which has various artillery and guns on display……they are still finding bombshells as well as un-detonated ones!  20200307_095259Mines are also still a problem all these years later.  We stopped in to see a video, which Jackie explained was a Viet cong propaganda video, made in the late 60’s meant, to encourage villagers to join the fight against the Americans…..it showed happy smiley people, including little boys and girls maybe 5 years old if that, holding and shooting guns.  Told them all how smart they were and that fighting and killing Americans was their priority.  They dug the tunnels, set booby traps……really quite horrific ones…..the things nightmares are made of!  If you didn’t join them, they simply killed you, or your family…..these poor people had no choice….they were stuck between a rock and hard place.  I remember thinking how horrid it was that innocent women and children were also being killed during the war  but this kind of makes us understand now why the Americans shot everyone and everything in their way……you just wouldn’t know if it was an innocent villager, or small child, with an AK 47 or Kalishnikov (sp?) tucked under their shirt.   Just incredible!

The tour was very good and informative.  Cathy went in one of the tunnels……pretty claustrophobic and she’s really tiny!

IMG_0029
One of the very well camoflaged tunnel entrances

The route is laid out very well, easy to follow and nicely shaded so relatively comfortable to wander thru.  There are re-creations of what some of the areas in the tunnels would have looked like; the kitchen or cooking area with the special venting so the smoke went along the ground instead of up in the air so as not to be detected from above, meeting rooms, sleeping rooms and sewing rooms where they made uniforms and sandals, made from old tires, that you put on backwards to make it look like you were walking the other way if someone was tracking you.  The hospital building was really interesting…..the area was completely covered in bamboo, which was planted on purpose…..if the Americans used some defoliant to kill the trees and grass, the bamboo would grow back very quickly. They also had the various booby traps displayed, just horrific…..seeing one or two was enough for me!  Many termite mounds around, some real, others manmade, which would have little holes hidden in them for airways into the tunnels.

What made this place all the more creepy was the shooting range!!  So the whole time you are wandering around all you hear is gun fire…….just a little disturbing.  You can shoot any number of different weapons for $3US a bullet!  Also a number of bomb craters….one from a B52. Finished the tour at the little souvenir and rice paper shop.

Lunch was a short drive away at a great spot between two canals…..Ben Nay (lots of trip advisor reviews), very pretty and picturesque!   One big building and lots of smaller pagoda type buildings for dining. Set menu but the food was quite good and there was lots of it!  Nice cold beers to go along with it all.   Very hot even with the ceiling fans going inside our pagoda.

About an hour bus ride back to the city centre.  Big trucks filled with watermelons, lots of roadside produce places.  Stopped for an hour or so visit to a local market.  Crazy busy, selling everything……standard tourist souvenir stuff, some really nice clothes and tee shirts, flowers, beautiful colourful produce, fish (fresh and dried), many food stalls…..it all smelled really good!  Too hot and just too busy so Donna and I headed across the street to a little bar for beers…..the boys from our tour group joined us so chatted until time to meet the bus to go back to the hotel.

Back to the hotel and time for a nice dip in the pool and drinks at the swim up bar!  So, so hot.  Not as muggy as it was this morning.  Chatted with more of our group.  Lori and Connie are cousins!  Fun ladies.

Dinner tonight was on a big riverboat.  Cruised around the harbour for an hour or so, good views of the city at night.  Big boat, two levels, meant to serve hundreds of people but not even half full….the bottom level was not in use at all.  Dinner was a set menu and would have been really quite good had any of it been hot, or even warm.  Some entertainment…..singing and playing a xylophone type thing made of slabs of slate.

We boarded the boat at 7:30 and were off a few minutes after 9.  Not terribly a great evening unfortunately.  The whole thing overall was pretty tacky…..apparently meant for the Asian tourist market.  Was nice driving thru the city at night though.  They still have all the New Years decorations up…..lots of lights.  It’s a “special” new year.  Busy on the streets at night…..people milling about, tons of scooters, all honking!!

Back to the hotel, drinks in the bar with most of our group…..fun chatting and getting to know everyone a bit more.

Up in our room the lights were just as wonky as ever.  We’d reported it to the desk and they told us they’d been fixed….NOT.  Remembered to take the little flashlight into the bathroom, in case the lights went out….and it did!  Donna and I just laughed…trying to guess which lights would go on and off and when.  We tried taking the card out but it made no difference.

Great day….all very interesting.  It’s quite a nice city…..colourful, busy, loud, crowded, definitely full of life!  To bed around 11…..with my eye mask!

Sun Mar 8

Up early for coffee.  Psycho lights!!  Thank goodness for my eye mask, I slept great.  Really like the pillows!!

Great breakfast, lots of chatting about the lights….everybody has told the desk and they just say it’s fixed….ah well!

On the bus by 8 again….Mekong Delta today.  First we had a visit to the Thien Hau Pagoda, Tau not Buddhist. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thien_Hau_Temple_(Ho_Chi_Minh_City)   Had to walk a block from the bus and came across ladies selling birds, song birds.  Lots of them in cages.  Before or after you visit the temple you are supposed to release a bird….it’s for good luck, health and compassion (?), now that said why catch them in the first place, but oh well.  The pagoda is really quite impressive….appears to be very similar to a Buddhist temple.  According to Jackie, it’s not important who you worship but just the fact that you do….many people go to more than one temple.

Jackie suggested we wear our masks….they’d stopped yesterday and bought us all one.  With the outbreak here, it’s necessary to wear them some of the places we’ll be going.  Here though was for the incense…..very strong, lots of it and lots of smoke!  What an incredible place.  You must step over the threshold when you go in, light an incense stick and pray.  Inside is beautiful but it’s the roof and eaves that are amazing…..the detail of the porcelain figures is incredible, dioramas.  The pagoda was originally built in the 1700’s and has undergone a number of renovations/restorations.  It’s pretty much open air.  Some beautiful treasures encased in glass….a ship, and figures.  Beside the incense sticks, you can buy a big coil/cone shaped incense that is hung from the ceiling, when lit it burns all day.

It’s in the centre, in front of the main altar.  Many, many people, some doing the incense, others bringing offerings, ladies putting together beautiful flowers.  The smell was pretty strong I must say….not a bad smell but a bit overpowering, especially if you have any breathing issues.  There is a wall with pink pieces of paper showing who has donated and how much….besides recognition, it’s to entice others to do the same.  In a separate enclosed room, which is sort of a meeting room, there are pictures on the wall that are quite beautiful…..one that depicts each animal of the new years.  But I must say it was the porcelain roof figures that were amazing to me.  They could use a good power wash though…..

The drive thru the city and out to the countryside was wonderful.  IMG_0201The city with the scooters, sidewalk food sellers, fruit/veg stands, motorcycle parts and repair shops….sometimes regardless of the type of business a bike would be parked inside!!  Various modes of transport…..mostly scooters but a few other carts often pulled by a  bicycle, or the person!  Busy, busy…..just constant action.  On the main highway and in a few other places there are separate lanes just for scooters.  Just outside the city it gets green…..lots of palm groves, gardens, rice fields.  Some of the rice paddies were just recently harvested….they get 3 crops a year down here.  Lots of stores and IMG_0209roadside stands selling those little green packets of “fermented” meat.  They looked like little presents wrapped in green paper with gold ribbon….is actually banana leaf and dried grasses or shredded corn husks.

The countryside is really quite lovely….much more green and lush.  The gardens are very neat, tidy and orderly. They’re growing bitter melon, corn, coconut palms, lettuces, cabbage etc. as well as the green rice paddies.  Many of the plots of land have above ground tombs…..families bury their dead on their land.  If the land is ever sold they cannot be moved and the family will always be allowed access to visit whenever.

Stopped about half way (2+hr drive to My Tho…on the river)  for a break at a neat Farm Stay place called Bac Kim Thang, I think.  Very clean, nice and bright and big.  Cool lights made out of baskets, bamboo water features and produce grown on the farm, including fresh peeled whole coconuts.  Local wine too…..normal wine and a specialty wine, which I bought a bottle to try for $5US…..it’s not like the normal wine apparently….we’ll see when we get a chance to try it.  Beautiful place……would be kind of fun to experience this away from all the hustle and bustle of the city for a few days.

Arrived in My Tho and Jackie explained where we’d be heading on our tour.  Very warm and muggy, sort of overcast, or maybe pollution….not sure.    Four islands, Turtle (longevity) Phoenix (??), Dragon (strength) and Unicorn (happiness) but the order that we visit will depend on the tides because of our small boat ride.  This is just a very small section of the Mekong Delta, which is huge.   The floating markets are another 2 or 3 hours away so we were all a little disappointed that we wouldn’t get to visit them.  You can take a boat up the Mekong to Phnom Penh…..fast boat takes approx 5 hours….also can do cruises that take a couple of days with a lot of stops along the way, which I think would be interesting and something to try one day.

Boarded our boat for a nice little tour and ride out to Turtle island.  About a 1/2 hour ride along the river.  Lots of brightly painted boats or junks that people live on.  Many are for transporting supplies to the islands and/or floating villages.  Very interesting watching the people onboard going about their daily business….cooking, washing, fishing.  Lots of kids!! Quite a few barges with gravel or sand loaded so full they’re just barely above the water line.  They actually “mine” the sand, which is slowly destroying the delta and and river banks.  Closer to the islands is what looks like a floating village with houses.  Getting near the end of the dry season so the river is very low and quite silty right now…..unfortunately also a lot of garbage, mostly plastic bottles and bags.  Not sure why but many of the boats were at quite a tilt…..a bit scary, but they just motored along.

Docked at a rather sketchy pier (a board from the front of the boat to a concrete block) but we all made it off the boat with the help of our guides.  IMG_0288 Bees!!  Lots of bees.  Got to hold one of the slats full of them….apparently they’re quite docile when they’re busy making honey….this is good!  IMG_0278The island is beautiful and lush…..very hot and humid too.  Local fruit trees; banana, mango, rambutan, longan etc.  We got to sample some honey tea that was very good and not as sweet as I’d expected.  Various other treats made with honey…..dried banana, ginger and a kind of peanut brittle….all very good.  Bought some of the dried banana.  We also got to sample some of the creams and balms they make and sell made with royal jelly.

IMG_0280

After our sampling out came the snake!!  I think it was a boa….about 5 or 6ft long.  It’s the family pet!!  They let the snake out into the rice paddies/gardens in the morning to get the rats!  Not sure exactly how they get it back, but they do.  20200308_115529I’ve held smaller ones and a very docile cobra in Morocco, but this guy was huge and very strong.  When he moved his head, you could feel the muscles, or whatever snakes have, move 4 ft away down towards his tail.  Only a few people decided to hold him……the lady stood close by of course but not sure if it was for our safety or the snakes!!  Not creepy at all.

Back onto our boat and to Phoenix island…I think.  Another nice ride along the river.  The sun had came out by this time and really brightened everything up….much better for pics….it had also warmed up a lot.  Very hot and even more humid.  Got off the boat on much the same type of pier.  More houses, or dwellings….hard to call some of them houses.  People had settled on these islands, most from central Vietnam, “a long time ago” according to Jackie, but not really clear on how long, but many generations.  Because they were quite isolated on the delta, they’ve kept many of their traditional farming habits and songs and dances etc.  Kids take water taxis to school, some in My Tho or to the bigger islands that have schools. Had a nice walk thru paths lined with trees, mostly fruit and palms, and peoples houses and yards……some cooking, doing laundry or just laying in a hammock….can’t say I blamed them!!  The sweat was just running down our necks….and that was in the shade of the trees!  The houses were a mix of concrete, bricks, wood, corrugated metal, grass etc., some so tucked away you could hardly see them.

Arrived at a big covered market area.  We got to sample some local fruits; mango (v.v.v.g), papaya, dragon fruit (pretty but rather tasteless), pineapple (quite dry??), and longan or dragon eye…sort of lychee flavor and texture except for the big seed in the middle so you kind of have to suck the fruit off of it.  IMG_0306They put on a nice little performance of traditional song and dance while we enjoyed more honey tea.  Had few minutes to browse the market before our canoe ride on the canal.  Four per boat plus the rowers in front and back.  Getting in was a bit tricky…..stepping into the canoe dead centre was very important…..not the easiest thing to do from the wibbly stairs but we managed.  Very, very hot, so we all got conical hats to wear.  Was really very pleasant going along the canal….lots of shade.  It’s not very wide, just enough room for two canoes to pass most of the way.

IMG_0323
Mangrove or Nipa Palm fruit…

Very interesting plants….the mangrove palms have look like big round pinecones on them, that when broken apart have a very tasty fruit.  Many houses and what look like little pop-up cafes that people set up, boats tied up along the shore.  Went just over a kilometre, took about 1/2 hour.  Wouldn’t have minded a bit longer of  ride.  Nice, but short, walk in the shade back to our big boat for the next stop.

Not sure exactly which island we went to next but it all pretty much had to do with coconuts!  They make anything and everything from the coconuts….nothing goes to waste.  They still use ancient presses to get the milk out of the coconut meat.

Had a demo of candy making….almost like toffee, very tasty and not really sweet.  Scorpion wine or a liquor of some sort made with coconut water.  Each bottle has a scorpion in it.  Beautiful purses and bags made with the fibres.  Had a very pleasant walk along a canal and thru the village to our buggy ride…..the poor donkey!  IMG_0342I really could have done without it. Didn’t notice the driver whipping him luckily but he was yelling a lot, so not terribly enjoyable.  Hate seeing animals used for stuff like this.  Lots of people riding bikes….apparently we could have done that, which I think I would have preferred.  Nice shady, paved pathways, mostly bikes, scooters and buggies.  Whatever the place was, it was really very clean and tidy.  A few restaurants and food sellers, so definitely bigger than the other islands we’d been too.

The shoreline where our boat was is full of lotus plants……like huge waterlilies.  IMG_0356Very thick but no blooms.  Jackie pulled one out to show us the root that is used in cooking.  Once on board we all got a coconut to drink the milk.  Not very much taste but just cool enough for it to be refreshing.  Smoking hot by then…..well after 1PM.

Back to My Tho and on to a beautiful place for lunch.  The Mekong Rest Stop…..beautiful gardens with many different restaurant areas.  We had a set menu lunch as usual but all was really good.  A couple of highlights were the sticky rice ball…..have no idea how they make it but once cut up it was delicious and the “elephant ear” fish, which is deep fried, the scales all curl up making is quite interesting.  Was quite tasty with sort of the same texture as halibut.  It all went really well with a couple of nice cold beers.  So, so hot!!

Great drive back to the hotel…..the street scenes are just fascinating.  No matter where you look there is something interesting to see.  Just enough time for a bit of break with a nice cooling swim before getting ready for our Farewell Saigon dinner.

Dinner at Au Parc Mediterranean Restaurant.  In a neat part of town full of cafes, restaurants and bars.  Buzzing with people on the street and sitting at the outside tables.  Dinner was excellent.  Kabobs, really good french fries, salad etc. with a yummy, and decadently sweet chocolate torte for dessert.  Today is International Women’s Day so Jackie bought us all roses…..how sweet!

Fun evening…..a bit of tour by bus and walking thru the area around the opera and the beautiful Hotel Continental.  The Opera was something else before the opera…..they added a number of embelishments to the outside during renos…..quite like anything you’d see in  Europe.  Very pretty with the streets all lit up.  Still incredibly warm even at that time of night.  Will change soon tho when we get to Hanoi.

Another great and very full day……sometimes by the end of the day it’s hard to remember something we did in the morning……was that just this morning or was it yesterday????  They definitely cram in as much as is humanly possible to see.  Drinks in the bar back at the hotel but to bed pretty early by just after 10…..with the eye mask of course!!  Won’t miss the lights…..the most annoying thing is when you’re in the shower and damn things go out…..thank goodness for my trusty little flashlight!

Mon Mar 9

Slept great.  I almost feel like I’ve been gone for weeks but it’s only been 4 days!!!  Packed up this morning …..off to Hanoi this afternoon.  Checked out after breakfast and had a bit of a bus tour thru the city and then a walking tour.  Great city……really fun, busy and some beautiful architecture.  Started near the Opera House, I think, and worked our way thru a bit of a ritzy shopping area (passed yet another Hermes…..there is a scarf in my future one of these trips!!) to a very lovely plaza and pedestrian only boulevard. At the top of the plaza is City Hall, which is a very pretty colonial style building.  The Rex Hotel, originally built in the 1920’s but not as a hotel, is on the corner. It was renovated and turned into an upscale hotel during the 1960 and is where many of the press and correspondents spent their time during the war.  Interesting tidbit…..we refer to it as the Vietnam War, they refer to it as the American War!!  Many of the buildings were built or renovated during the French occupation……they really are pretty lovely and they’ve been well maintained over the years.  Then on to Notre Dame cathedral and the old train station, which is now the post office.  We could not go in the cathedral, too bad.  Not sure if it was a covid thing or??  The post office building is beautiful inside and out!  We could see the old US embassy and supposedly the ladder that is still there from when the last people were being evacuated……now I want to see that movie, Miss Saigon again!!

On the bus for a short ride to the Independence or Reunification Palace.  https://independencepalace.gov.vn/# Used by the president of SVN during the war.  At the end of the war the NVN tank that crashed the gate is on display.  Lovely well kept grounds.  20200309_095517Building is rather art deco-ish.  The slats or whatever you would call them on the face are meant to represent bamboo….calming and airy.  No AC only the open slats create enough cool air flow to not need it!  Not clear if it’s used for anything today…..meetings, art exhibitions and a tourist attraction.  A rather austere building inside and out.  Toured it from top to bottom…..the rooms are huge, lots of local Vietnamese woodwork, inlay and lacquer.  Some artwork on the walls but basically not a very warm and welcoming place.

IMG_0455
The “rec room”

Besides a movie theatre, there’s a “rec room” (upstairs, not in the basement as we would have), interesting with various games tables etc. but really uncomfortable looking furniture….not a fun looking place.  But it was the basement that was the highlight of the tour!!  This is where the president and his generals kept tabs on what what going on…..also was a bunker of sorts and where they’d flee too if invaded.  All the old equipment is still there.  An entire separate kitchen to feed all the people that worked down there.

Our next stop was a tour and visit to a lacquer craft shop.  Who knew all that went into making this stuff….it’s never been one of my favourites but definitely appreciate it much more.  The process is very interesting.  IMG_0467Quite a few steps to prep the material and even more interesting was besides just paint and shells, they also use crushed duck eggs to make some of the designs.  Bins and bins of duck egg shells…..who knew!!  Very time consuming and apparently there are a lot of “fakes” so we were told.  Not sure I’d be able to tell real lacquer from fake so it’s a good thing that I’d be unlikely to buy any but some very nice stuff.

All this and it wasn’t even noon yet!!  Our last stop before lunch was The War Remnants Museum.  http://www.baotangchungtichchientranh.vn/Main.aspx?L=EN  I only got as far as the first room and that was enough for me, I could not deal with it……..just horrific. I lived thru the 60’s and 70’s….I’m just glad I did not have to live thru what so many people here did!!  Vietnamese are just amazing resilient people.  To have lived thru what they have for centuries, being invaded and occupied by not just other countries but their own too!!  Millions of people died during the war. Supposedly Vietnam has one of the youngest populations in the world, the average age is 34 or something like that.  Jackie had family, many that perished, and enough that lived to tell about it.  I hope they, nor anyone ever has to live thru anything like it ever again.  They have made quite an incredible comeback over the last 40 years.  Tourism is now one of their main industries.  Anyway, I hit the gift shop and then coffee shop.  Chatted with a couple of others who’d also seen enough.  Some people came out with tears in their eyes!

Lunch before heading to the airport.  It was great as usual, everything absolutely delicious….ribs today which was a real treat.  We always get one of all the plates for 4 people….so way more than enough. It seems like we eat a lot!!

Off to the airport for our 4PM flight to Hanoi.  Check-in etc. all went smooth.

Hanoi next……..